Maheshwar Musings

Google maps suggested that the tiny, ancient town of Maheshwar on the banks of the Narmada was just an hour away from Indore. But, at the bus stand, I learnt it’s three hours away! I looked at the tin bus with battered seats and then at the afternoon summer sun blazing mercilessly on the hot, […]

Exploring Greenland, Viking Style

It was two minutes past midnight, as I reclined on the comfortable couch of a luxurious expedition ship, somewhere on the high seas that surrounded the largest island in the world – Greenland.  Miles of crystal icebergs stretched as far as the eye could see, scintillating in the soft glow of the Midnight Sun. A […]

Love Cast in Stone – Erotic Temple Art

India is dotted with many glorious temples, but erotica on the walls of some arouses curiosity and even puzzles tourists. There are various theories about the reason for such vivid depiction of erotica–mass sex education, warding off natural calamities and the devdasi system. Due to the presence of 64 Yogini temples near Khajuraho, Padawali, Konarak/Lingaraj […]

The Burning Mountains of Iceland

“There are depths of thousands of miles that are hidden from our inquiry. The only tidings we have from those unfathomable regions are by means of volcanoes, those burning mountains that seem to discharge their material from the lowest abyss of the earth,” said the Anglo-Irish writer and playwright, Oliver Goldsmith. By the time you learn to pronounce names of […]

In Quest Of The Forbidden Fruit

There lies a fairy tale land in the bosom of Himachal Pradesh blushing red in autumn with the allure of the ‘forbidden fruit’. Sangla Valley in Kinnaur was the starting point of my exploration of Himachal’s Apple Trail. Set in the midst of a sprawling apple orchard with plump, red apples glistening like rubies while […]

Art and Awakening in Puri

Like me, the overnight train that I was travelling on, seemed to believe in slow travel. Shamelessly, without a care in the world, the ‘slow coach’ chugged in five hours late at Puri, Odisha’s famous sea side resort. This gave me more time to enjoy the rural landscape – acres of lush farms dotted with […]

Monkey Business in Mathura

Ever since I reached the age of reason and resistance I found myself questioning all religious customs that I was expected to conform to. Over the years however , I have developed a strange curiosity perhaps bordering on spiritual, to explore popular religious hubs associated with major world religions and experience first hand the vibe […]